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Ayurvastra - Process of Ayurvdedic Textiles

Ayurvastra process is a unique process developed after a lot of research on ancient textiles. After many years of research, the ancient dyeing is discovered by our team of scholars and formulas are made in different proporations. Finally, standardized into twelve shades and four finishings (general wellness, anti-microbial, aromatic, and sleep enhancing).

The modern textile industry is developing towards synthetic process creating health hazards. Ayurvastra uses natural methods to safegurad the health. There is a concept called micro-encapsulation where the active components of herbs are encapsulated and fixed into the textiles for many finishings. The same has been done by our ancestors naturally and bond with the textile.

Pre-processing (RFD)

The pre-processing is a method where the contamination of the fibres or the fabrics were removed. In cotton, there is a component pectin (yellowish color) and the spinning and weaving use wax and stratch. To remove these unwanted elements we do a pre-processing process.

Desizing

Desizing is a process where herbs are used to release the surface tension of the fibre or fabrics. And for this we need a natural surfacant. There are numerous natural surfacant to perform this operation. The fabrics are soaked into the surfacant solution for 24hours. So, it becomes wet and also all the impurities are disturbed and ready to release from the fabrics. We do the desizing process without using any hazardous chemicals.

Scouring

Scouring is a process where the impurities are removed. For this purpose, we need an alkaline. Nature has given a lot of alkaline (ph more than 9). In earlier days, people use wood ash. We collect waste timber woods. Mostly residues after the banana cultivation were also used. The fabric or yarn is boiled in the presence of alkaline, so the impurities are washed out and pectin is also cleared to prepare the fabrics ready for dyeing (RFD).

Dyeing

Ayurvedic dyeing is the complex dyeing process where many entities are involved. Shade herbs (which gives shades) and Mordanting Herbs (myrobalam, jathi leaves) and Ayurvedic Herbs (for Infusing Ayurvedic properties).

Selecting Shade Herbs

There are above 25 to 50 herbs which gives vibrant shades. These herbs are available in wild and can be collected after use from leaves, flowers, barks, skins, seeds, fruits, and other parts of plants. We take much care in procuring herbs. We don't use food items or live trees or any other method which will destroy the environment. Herbs may be classified into different varieties based on its shades and available colors.

Selection of Natural Mordants

Mordants is very important for fixing the shades into the fabrics. Mordants are used as a pre-mordant and also post-mordant. Pre-mordant is used before the dyeing and post-mordant is used after the dyeing. But in Ayurvastra mordant is added during the time of dyeing or at the time of making kashayam. There are abundant natural mordant are available from plants and minerals (natural alum). We have a formula or percentage of mordant to be added to make the fabrics absorb properly.

Selection of Ayurveda Herbs

All our Ayruveda textiles are dyed using live extracts by combination of the herbs focusing on general wellness. About 7 to 10 herbs are combined to make a kashayam which gives energy to the fabrics (neem leaves, aloevera, nochi, aada-doda, vasambu, thulasi, touchmenot, etc.). Ayurveda herbs are added to enhance the wellness effects for the users. Here, Ayurvastra differs from other types of natural textiles.

Preparation of Kashayam

Kashayam is the combination of live extracts of a group of herbs made for dyeing purpose. It is a one-form aqua extracts taken by boiling the water and extracts dyes, active components, and mordant properties. More than 15 herbs (for shades, mordanting and for bringing ayurveda property) are taken in a material ratio and water ratio. And boiled in a controlled environment to bring live extracts (Kashayam).

Dyeing

It is the process to fix the shades into the fabrics. Yarn or fabrics (RFD) is directly immersed into the kashayam and boiled for an specific time with a controlled temperature and water. We use only medicinally rich herbs, plants like turmeric, myrobalan, tulasi, pomegranate etc for dyeing fabric or yarn. We have aspired to achieve and retain the medicinal qualities of the herbs by immersing the plant material directly in the dye bath for the same reason.

Fixing and Softening

In ayurvedic herbal dyeing, finishing is done by sprinkling pure water on the cloth and once again treated with natural surfactant solution to remove the unfixed in yarn or fabrics. The dyed fabrics are too hard usually. So the natural herbal ingredients (for example coconut oil, Castrol oil) are used for softening the fabric or yarn.

Ayurvastra - Shades

Shade *	Some of Predominant Herbs	Benefits
Yellow	Turmeric / Avarampoo / Pomegranate	It contains a yellow-colored chemical called curcumin, which is often used to color foods and cosmetics.
Green	Tulasi / Karisalankanni / Onion	Tulsi leaves are used to treat skin problems like acne, blackheads and premature ageing.
Blue	Indigo Leaves / Wood	Indigo possesses restorative and smoothing properties for skin.
Orange	Annatto / Marigold	Annatto is sometimes put directly onto the skin to treat burns and other wounds, to repel insects, and for vaginal or eye infections.
Red	Kumkum / Maddar / Pathimugam	The healing water that turns light pink in color is used as a cure for skin diseases, blood purification and diabetes.
Kakki	Kadukaai / Nellikaai / Thaanthondrikaai	Its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties may help heal certain skin issues.
Pink	Sevaralikodi / Pathimugam	Topical application of Manjistha combats dry skin, rashes, itchiness and inflammation. It lightens scars and marks and flushes toxins out of the body.
Black	Karungali / Puliyankaai	It effectively scavenges free radicals from the skin and diminishes oxidative damage.
Natural White	Limestone / Fullerseth / Sunlight	It eliminates dead cells acting as a natural exfoliant. Gives a better appearance to the skin tone, promoting a more radiant and luminous effect.
Brown	Vettiver / Velam	Vetiver essential oil is hailed for its use in skin cell regeneration and boosting the growth of new cells.
Grey	Vembaadam / BlackCummin	The bark is used for skin diseases as it has anti-allergic properties.
Ivory	Neem / Pomegranate	The antioxidants in neem are beneficial for reducing melanin production of your skin. It also reduces the dark spots, blemishes and any kind of redness on your skin

* - Shades will vary depending upon herbs (Ratio/Season/Climate/Region etc.)